With the extended summer season, a group of friends and I wanted to do another short trip. In the past, we’ve done day rides to different waterfalls in Luzon. The problem though is that aside from the distances and elevation traveled, most of the time, trips would entail hikes limiting our appreciation of these landmarks of nature.
This time, we set an overnight bike trip to Ambon-Ambon falls in Laurel Batangas, which is approximately 70km from Las Pinas (about 85km from Manila). Since one of our friends comes from the area.
For the first day, several riders and i met in Molito Alabang to pedal our way to Tagaytay. The fastest route was through Paliparan heading to Silang. Reaching the roundabout of Tagaytay city early afternoon, we went down via the Sampaloc road, an approximately 15km descent to Batangas.
Upon reaching Talisay, we pedaled our way to Laurel, Batangas (about 8 km and left our stuff in one of our friend’s house) and proceeded to the falls.
riding to the falls is both a rewarding yet physically challenging experience due to the mixed terrain of gravel, rock and mud and several stream crossings. This went about for approximately 2km. Good thing weather was dry and heading to the falls wasn’t much of a problem.
Hike, Bike, Hike
To end the first day, we spend the night at our friend, Ferd’s house on top of the mountain.
The next day, we got back home by pedaling our way up to Tagaytay via the Sampalo-Talisay Road which is 15km of mostly climbs. The early part of the day was really hot but rain fell early afternoon making the climb more manageable. Heading home was a breeze as we simply backtracked our way.
Pic with Ferd’s Dad and Nephew at the house on the top of the mountain
bike hikes can be demanding as you need to dismount constantly on varying terrain. In this case, it was good that we used slippers or sandals during the trek to Ambon-Ambon falls.
It is advisable to make the trip 2 months after the rainy season as the falls wasn’t too strong during the summer. In fact, some friends said that the there isnt any water in the falls during the peak season of summer.
Bringing a light bike helps when you carry your rig around during the hike. It is advised to set your bike rackless for trips like this.
I’d say Ambon-Ambon falls is a good day trip if you’re looking for a good challenging ride with a taste of varied terrain in your adventure.
Strava route for the trip: https://www.strava.com/activities/1584026203
Batangas, which is located south of Luzon, Philippines features one of the best diving spots in the region. Though I have had a couple of day tours and a 2 days bike trip, a couple of friends and I organized a tour on the island of Tingloy in Batangas. I’ve heard of the enticing beach in this place but what intrigued me is the bike route that lies ahead. Given the summer season, this tour was perfect to do cycling and swimming.
We were 13 riders in total and met at the Buendia bus station in Pasay and left 2 in the morning to catch the first trip of the day. After 3 hours, we arrived at Batangas Grand Terminal and pedaled roughly 20km on our way towards Anilao port passing by the town of Mabini and others.
heading to the port early morning
After going to the market for food and supplies, dealing with our boat captain, loading our bikes on the boat and We got to Tingloy island around 8 in the morning and started our trip towards Masasa beach, the popular public beach in the Island. While the route was quite straightforward and mostly paved, we were amazed with the site of the beach as well as the rock formation around the area.
heading to the rock formation
After a long climb back to head to the town proper, we decided to proceed to another beach in the island and explore the backroads after a light snack. The road to the beach was both an exciting yet challenging one as it was a combination of paved, hardpack and singletrack paths. Though it was estimated that the backroad to the other beach was about 7km, the intense heat, varying degrees of elevation of climbs and terrain made the trip an ordeal. We arrived at the beach early afternoon and setup camp. Good thing there was a nice homestay that allowed us to stay for the night.
For the second day, some friends went to the beach for another round of swimming while others just relaxed in different areas. After meals, we were picked up by the boat at 2pm and got to Anilao port an hour later. Getting to the terminal early evening, we left for Alabang terminal at 630pm and got back to the city around 9pm.
While i’d recommend Tingloy Batangas as a short get away tour for those who have limited days off and budget, there are several considerations:
For an island trip that runs around approximately 15km, this has got to be one of the most challenging routes for me due to the heat, climbs and terrain. Aside from steep climbs on paved and trail paths, we had to contend with fist sized rocks throughout the offroad parts (about 40%) and in some of the steep descents. Though CX bikes can manage this, plus/fat bikes are very much capable of handling the terrain in the island. Of course, skills in trail riding helps.
The cost of the bus from Buendia to Batangas is 160Php but we were ripped off by the DLTB bus as they charged 200 pesos per bike! Good thing the ALPS bus service going back home didn’t charge any for bike storage.
Heading to the Tingloy Island from Anilao port can be tricky as boat trip schedules can be tight . Though you can take the regular trips for as little as 70 Php (which you may arrive late morning in the island as we have seen with other bikers during our trip), it is advised to go with a group and arrange transfers with other boats and negotiate the price. For our trip, we spent 730 per person for roundtrip transfers. Sure it may be pricey, but we chose our own schedules our stuff was secured by the staff throughout the trip as we were the only passengers on the boat.
Since bike tours help you manage expectations, it is best that items such as cooksets, canned food and water filters are brought when you do this as stores charge higher for items in the island and there are very few them. Also, the island cuts power at 12 midnight and resumes at 12 noon.
Biketouring the Philippines: Leg 6 (Palawan & Final Thoughts)
In this final entry about our tour of the Philippine Islands, we focus on one set of islands-Palawan which is part of Western Luzon.
Days 29-31 (Approximately 40km total)
Heading back home to Manila from Western Visayas, three of us (Jiggs, Edan and I) took two boat trips to Coron (Iloilo to Puerto Prinsesa with a stopover to Cuyo & Puerto Prinsesa to Coron)
Scenes at Cuyo
The nice sandbar/white beach in Cuyo (perfect for kitesurfing!)
Heading to Puerto Prinsesa from Iloilo, we took the Milagrosa shipping lines (Php 1,200 for deluxe accommodations 36 hours). We also had a 6 hours stopover at Cuyo which is a small island with a great white beach and sandbar-the best thing is…it’s free!
After that stopover, we boarded the ship again to head to Puerto Prinsesa, Palawan. Good thing, I had a friend (former student) who hosted us for the day and she directed us to head to Aldo’s pension Inn which was very spacious and provided all our needs. Since we almost had a whole day, we decided to head to the crocodile farm and saw some other wildlife in the park. We were off at 8pm from Puerto Prinsesa for that 16 hour trip to Coron.
With Janet Oab of Puerto Prinsesa Palawan at Aldo’s Pension Inn
The Crocodile Farm and Conservation Center
Different stages of development
At the Provincial Capitol and a must try restaurant “Ka-Lui”
Days 32-35 (approximately 60km Total)
When we arrived, a friend who had a resthouse in Coron requested some folks from the island to pick us up and brought us to the Kubo sa Gubat (Hut in the Forest) for our accommodation. It was indeed a very nice place as we were surrounded by heavy vegetation. And for the next few days, we went to different islands and spots in Coron such as the Barracuda lake, Twin Lagoons, the public beach. Morover, we also hiked up to Mt. Tapyas (around 700 plus steps!) and spent a couple of hours at the Maquinit hotsprings which was a few kilometers away from the port.
At our friend place “kubo sa gubat” (courtesy of Sagada Loopers)
The twin lagoons
A floating restaurant
The trek to Mt. Tapyas
At the Maquinit Hotspring
We took the 430pm trip via Superferry from Coron to Manila and arrived at 730 in the morning the next day to end our tour
I believe that the Palawan leg is a good way to end the loop because very little cycling was done to cap off a lengthy tour. While there are many activities here, touring the island by bike might also be another option in the future though there are very few towns (and are far apart) in Palawan.
Coron has that “otherworldly” character. That is, it’s landscapes and bodies of water are pristinely preserved as locals are highly engaged and very much protective of their lands.
With tourism as the main industry in Palawan, expect costs of goods to be quite expensive. Therefore, it is practical to have your hosts/hotel staff cook meals for you. You can buy canned food and other meats at the public market.
Overall, I felt that after several weeks on the road, bike touring the Philippines may be much more manageable if one goes around in specific regions/islands as transfers by boat can be tiresome and inefficient. For instance, boat schedules, port locations and even destinations vary from region to region which can greatly affect the scheduling of your biketour.
In sum, I believe that biketouring the Philippines has been a worthwhile experience and something others should look forward to in the future…
Cover Photo Courtesy of Sagada Loopers
We’re grateful to several people our friends as well as fellow riders from the different places we’ve visited around the country who have offered help and assistance during our trip.
From our previous Leg in Cebu, we took ferry at Liloan Port at Santander and proceeded to Dumaguete, Negros Oriental which is part of Western Visayas…
Since we arrived early evening, we left our stuff at the Coastal Inn (980, good for 5 persons, http://www.dmgte.com/hotel/CoastalInn) after dinner at one of the local grills in the city. After that, we decided to try the popular Sansrival at the café. Perhaps due to the rich American influence, one can notice the remnants of the culture in its architecture as well as food. Contrasting it with Cebu, cuisine here appears to be sweet and fattening!
Day 23-24 (approximately 40km from port to Lazi and back)
One of our friends, Jiggs joined us for the leg in this tour and the group decided to go to Siquijor which is a few hours ride by boat (http://www.oceanjet.net/dumaguete-siquijor) from Dumaguete. Arriving early afternoon, we had photo ops in popular landmarks such as the church near the port and went to Lazi, Siquijor. Similar to Bohol, the island of Siquijor is a biker’s haven due to the adequately spaced and well paved roads, very minimal traffic and countryside feel-no malls or convenience stores!. Though the general impression is that Siquijor has that supernatural character (probably due to the mythic stories about the island), one can say that travel here makes you close to nature. When we got to Lazi, we had go through uphill climbs and decided to go to the Lazi Beach club for the night. Unfortunately, a large portion of the backroads of this island remain unpaved and I remember having difficulty as terrain was brutally harsh (rolling and unfinished). The Lazi Beach club unlike the other accommodation we’ve encountered before is quite expensive (2500 good for four!) and prices of food and other services seem to be for foreigners (quite expensive)! One consolation though is that the beach view is great and visitors are situated in a more solitary fashion as the resort is one of the few ones there on that part of Siquijor.We got back to Dumaguete early evening and treated ourselves to great food and drink.
The Church in Siquijor Town Proper and Markers
The big balete tree, fish spa and public spring
The backroads of Lazi
We were supposed to head north to Bacolod, Negros Occidental but Jun who sustained an injury earlier in his eye needed to get himself checked and sadly was strongly advised to abort the tour.
With four of us remaining, Edan and Rahnel decided to pedal from Dumaguete to Bacolod late evening while Jiggs and I took a bus to Kabankalan to continue from there. Arriving early morning at Kabankalan, Jiggs and I pedaled 90km to Bacolod. I remember that the heat was terrible early that day and that prompted us to stop several times to rest and rehydrate. But the road to Bacolod has been memorable as sugar cane plantations are everywhere leaving that sweet, sugary scent as you pass these roads. We arrived a little bit after lunch while Edan and Rahnel got to Bacolod around 10 in the evening. While waiting, Jiggs’ cousin Carla, who resides in Bacolod gave us a gastronomic welcome-treating us to cake, pizza and the popular chicken inasal (roasted chicken). We spent the night at the Regency plaza inn, Bacolod (650 for two persons, one of the cheapest in town and had the basic necessities for the bike tourer! https://www.booking.com/hotel/ph/regency-plaza-tourist-inn.html).
Not hot…terribly hot!
The food coma doesn’t stop (at Calea cakes-try the mudpie ice cream cake and roasted pork and chicken inasal at Nena’s)
Pizza Negrense at L’fisher Chalet (Courtesy of Carla and Jiggs)
before leaving for Iloilo (part of Panay Island, Western Visayas), Carla treated us to Diotay’s eatery. Compared to last night’s food, this time, seafood reigned supreme! After lunch, we took photos taken at the popular Ruins in Talisay City (http://www.choosephilippines.com/go/heritage-sites/2441/love-story-and-ruins/)-which was an old house built by a sugar baron from the city early in the 20th century-dubbed as the Taj Mahal of Negros (10km away from the Regency plaza Inn) , the rich historical tradition in architecture makes this place a must see. We ended the day by proceeding to the port and heading to Panay island.
When we got to Iloilo, a member of our bike group, Del Britanico welcomed us and brought us to the popular restaurant Tatoy’s where we had chicken and seafood and went around town and took pictures at the Molo Church and plaza. We stayed at the Highway 21 hotel (1200 good for 4 persons, https://www.facebook.com/highway21hotel/).
At Molo Town Plaza and Church
In these days, Rahnel decided that he will pedal his way up to Caticlan and head to Boracay and proceed to Batangas while the rest decided to stay put and take two ferry trips to Palawan. Rahnel went ahead and Edan, Jiggs and I went around Iloilo to see popular attractions around Iloilo. The next day, we checked out Guimaras Island, which is 15 minutes by boat (25 pesos with bike) from IloIlo. Famous for its beaches and Mangoes, the island is a great place for bikers as it has trails as well as tourist attractions. We went to the windmills and got around the island (about 40km in total) a bit and finally tasted some great delicacies made from Mangoes. We got back again early evening for the next leg of our tour.
Around Iloilo city and tasting the ever popular batchoy!
Among the different places in the Philippines which was part of the itinerary, I would say that the western Visayas has got to be the most challenging one in terms of climate as it was very hot during this time of the year. I assume that it was in the upper 20s-low 30s and humidity was just difficult to bear with.
One of the lessons I learned from other tourers abroad is that if delays are encountered, taking a bimodal route, in our case the bus ride from Dumaguete to Kabankalan is fine as some of us didn’t want to risk delaying the trip further. Personally, I felt there was a safety issue in riding late at night in the provinces as accidents are commonplace in the area.
This leg has been one of those potential areas I’d like to come back to in the future as the Negros-Panay island has a lot of things to offer in terms of tourist attractions and delicacies unique in the region. Moreover, among the different places in our loop, the food here is great.
The ferry trip from Dumaguete to Siquijor is Php 130 and Php50 for the bike. Going back though was different as we took a different carrier and they charged Php140 for the bikes! As mentioned earlier posts, it seems that sea travel to biketour the Philippines is one major challenge as costs seem to vary from area to area.
you can check the previous leg of our tour by clicking this link https://pedalpowerphilippines.wordpress.com/2017/04/18/bike-touring-the-philippines-leg-4-cebu/?frame-nonce=481f200030
On our way back home from Cagayan de Oro, Northern Mindanao, we took a boat to the Island of Cebu, which is located mid-east of the Philippines. As a center of commerce in the Visayas, it is to a certain extent modernize yet keeping the countryside charm which every biketourer clamours for. In this entry, I detail our experience in this leg of our Philippine bike tour in Cebu
Day 20 Cebu port to Argao (Approximately 68km)
We arrived early morning (about 5am) at Cebu city port taking the Cokaliong liner (Php 890 per person, economy accommodation) and proceeded to southwest to Argao. Though we initially planned to just stay at Carcar City, our ride was quite fast compared to the previous days since the terrain was straightforward. Very few climbs and weather was perfect. Though we encountered moderate traffic in the city proper, we eventually speed past the slow build-up of vehicles as we went away from the center.
The day was special as we dropped by the popular Carcar city public market. For those (un)familiar, Cebu prides itself of its native Lechon (roasted pig) and we were told that Carcar public market sells them at a cheaper price and are very fresh from the grill (Php300 per kilo). After lunch, coffee and a nap at a nearby café, we headed to Argao, Cebu and ended up staying at Looc Beach Resort.
Day 21 Argao to Oslob (approximately 52km)
Though it was hot that day, we managed to ride out early and enjoy the countryside. Heading south meant getting farther, deeper into the province where the sea and heavy patches of trees were commonplace. We spent time at the town of Boljoon which had an old church and school constructed in earlier times. Eventually we reached Oslob and stayed at a pension home.
Day 22 Oslob to Santander port (approximately 34km)
The next morning, we decided to go around town and enjoy Oslob. Though we weren’t really in to the Whaleshark offering, we wanted to go to Tumanog falls only to find out that trips there via motorcycle were a ripoff. Instead, we went around the old buildings such as the church, old town walls built during the Spanish era. In the afternoon we proceeded to Santander port to take the next boat to Dumaguete, Negros Oriental.
Rider Notes and Reflections:
I’ve biked in Cebu a few years ago and this province remains to be one of those havens for cyclists due to the many tourist spots and trails one can visit.
As far as taking boats are concerned, the Cokaliong liner remains as the best so far as the boats are “bikefriendly” (plenty of ramps, accommodating and helpful staff and very clean and spacious)
3. In terms of cuisine, you might find food in Cebu a bit salty and you would need to brace yourself for this as the food experience might be a bit awkward at first.
4. I was a little disappointed with our experience in Oslob as tours offered by the locals change in prices and are aimed at foreigners. For instance, as claimed by the caretaker of our pension home, the motorcycle ride we were supposed to take at Tumanog falls costs just 50 pesos but when we got to deal with the drivers, they claim it is Php150. Morover, though many suggested the whaleshark tour, we weren’t in favor of it as it is against sustainable tourism practice, -feeding the whalesharks-effectively disrupting their natural patterns of living.
5. I’d say, this leg of the biketour is the start of our “food coma” as cuisine is definitely memorable as with the remaining destinations of our tour going home.
6. for the previous leg in our tour, check this out https://pedalpowerphilippines.com/2017/04/14/bike-touring-the-philippines-leg-3-bohol-cagayan-de-oro/
7. The Santander port is a small and you may need to seek the help of locals who can direct you to the area. The fee for the trip from Cebu to Dumaguete is 70 Php.
Our friends from Irosin, Sorsogon (approximately 600km away from Manila) brought us to the Mateo Cold and Hot Springs resort for a well-deserved R and R (we’re eternally grateful to Cyrk, Natalie and Paolo for the food, warm welcome and guidance) and the next day they brought us to Bulusan Lake and after a proper send off, we took the boat to Allen, Samar…
Day 8 Allen to Calbayog
After taking the boat from Matnog we proceeded to Cyrk’s house in Allen, Samar for the night (we took the 8pm trip and the fare is Php170-fare and bike fee-don’t forget a bungee cord to secure your bikes at the cargo bay)
The next morning, we proceeded to Calbayog (approximately 50km away from Allen Port). The road was bumpy and it was particularly hot during the day making the climbs a bit difficult yet the view which gives a glimpse of the seaside makes the ordeal less miserable.
We decided to stay at the Coral reef beach resort…though it had a view of the beach we didn’t have access to the shore! Facilities were fairly ok but we managed to get through the night with a wonderful open cottage (1500 for a night and can fit as many as you can) (https://www.facebook.com/TCRBeachResort/).
photo op before leaving (Courtesy of Sagada Loopers)
Day 9 Calbayog to Catbalogan, Samar
Traveling approximately 90kms, the trip to Catbalogan, Samar was even more challenging as we encountered several rolling hills and heat seemed to intensify as the day progressed…good thing though there were several stores along the way where we could rest and take advantage of the shade…Upon the recommendation of Cyrk, we proceeded to the fame hotel located in the heart of the city (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fame-Hotel/130987193726452). The facility had the basics, but it took an effort for us to bring our bikes to the second floor as the stairs were narrow and steep.
Capitol Building in Catbalogan, Samar
Day 10 Catbalogan to Calbiga, Samar (approximately 55km)
Our fortunes changed when weather turned out a bit better as we encountered fair skies…though the terrain had still the occasional climbs, it was fairly manageable…for this day we were greeted with late afternoon rain (and it was freaking cold!)…we hoped to get to Tacloban but it was getting late and after I sustained a flat tire on my rear, we decided to call it a day at Calbiga, Samar…luckily the town is quite big and had many homestays (at least Php 200 per person per day) and people are eager to point you to the right direction.
Calbiga to Tacloban, Samar
I remember Mark (who does fieldwork in Mindanao and Visayas) reminding the group that as we approach Leyte, weather is far different compared to the Metro-and he was right-I recall waking up early and it was raining and it was unclear whether we’d be able to get to Tacloban on that day. Though we only needed to bike 60-65 kms to Tacloban, I was concerned about not reaching the Iconic San Juanico Bridge before sunset…True enough, we got to Tacloban at around 7 or 8pm and we weren’t able to get good photos of the longest bridge in the country…good thing the group decided to stay a bit longer as we wanted to go around town.
The next day, aside from running errands we had our chance to see this beautiful bridge (it is said that the San Juanico Bridge is about 2.16kms long) that connects and Samar and Leyte.
I had a reunion of sorts with my former student and her family and i recall talking about the devastation brought about by Yolanda (typhoon Haiyan) several years ago…and she directed me to some sites which served as a reminder of that calamity…
Day 13 Tacloban to Mahaplag, Leyte
After a day’s rest we were up and pedaling again into the heart of Leyte and as we passed by different towns, we got to see different sites that commemorated those who were affected by typhoon Haiyan…
Among the many days in the loop, this stands out perhaps as a heavy day for me as we passed by the mass grave at Palo (which is said to be one of the most severely struck during the typhoon) and memorial marker at Tanuan to pay our respects to those who passed away because of this calamity…
I recall this was a long and physically challenging day as we needed to get to Mahaplag (approximately 90km away from Tacloban) and though the majority of the road was flat, things changed when we got to Abuyog, Leyte where unrelentless climbs were encountered…though weather was cool and breezy, very little lighting was present and made the trip more challenging. We ended this day at the Mahaplag inland resort, (https://www.facebook.com/MahaplagInlandResort/?hc_ref=SEARCH&fref=nf) a nice government run facility which charged a decent price (Php 1000 for four people) but was a fine accommodation.
Day 14 Mahaplag Leyte to Port of Bato
Though we only needed to pedal about 60kms, we took time in taking photos at the 1000km mark as well as the famous Agas-Agas bridge which is the highest in the country, I remember that aside from several kilometers of climbs, rain was light to heavy prompting us to stop several times to take shelter…The roads are wide and very few vehicles would pass by making our trip to the port of Bato manageable…good thing there was a police station at the town of Bato and led us to a lodging house beside the port (800 Php for four persons) and from there we rested for the next day’s boat trip to another part of the Philippines.
Some rider notes:
Interestingly, the Samar-Leyte leg gives you a hint that foreigners often biketour the area as we were often shouted at with expressions such as “Hey Joe”. Upon interviewing, some locals in different areas, this seems to validate the observation as indeed many European and American biketourers have frequented the area (which seems to be the case in other parts of the country as well).
Roads are tolerable but certain sections are ridden with potholes (specifically ,the stretch from Allen to Calbayog due to many trucks travelling along the area as well as in Tacloban due to frequent road constructions). Be prepared as well to ride with EXTRA caution as traffic is a bit chaotic in the areas of Catbalogan and Tacloban.
If you intend to biketour these regions, February is the perfect time as typhoon season is relatively over and summer heat isn’t as excruciating compared to the ones experienced in April and May (I am grateful to Glenda, my graduate student for reminding me to reschedule the loop from November to February as typhoon season is at its peak in the area during the closing months of the year).
The path from Samar to Leyte is a scenic one. That is, you’ve got a combination of seaside views while riding and mountainous areas as you get deep into the heart of Leyte.
This is where we first encountered a change in itinerary as we were supposed to head to Maasin City, Leyte for the Mindanao leg but we had to change our route due to reported skirmishes between rebel and government forces in Mindanao. Good thing, Cyrk and Natalie recommended that since we were heading to the port of Bato, we would also pass by Agas Agas bridge which was a nice landmark in this leg.
Cover photo courtesy of Sagada Loopers (taken at San Joaquin, Samar)
For the past two years in doing long distance trips on a bike, I’ve never had a chance to do cross country cycling. Probably due to our state of living in an archipelago in the Philippines (as well as visa restrictions in a lot of parts of the world), bike touring from country to country is definitely a logistic problem.
However, in this adventure, I was fortunate to be guided with one experienced bike tourer-Sk Lah of Tree in Lodge (https://www.facebook.com/TreeInLodge/) to cycle from Singapore to Pengerang, Malaysia. Though it is common here to bike from SG to Johor Bahru, Malaysia via the causeway, the itinerary for this one was different. Instead of cycling with other vehicles in a massive highway, we took another route by boat.
Penegerang, Malaysia is part of the Kota Tinggi District and I was told that it was a large area where fishing villages thrived. As of late, the place has been undergoing massive development due to the petroleum industry.
Leaving Saturday night, four riders and I left the Tree in Lodge to head to the Changi Ferry Terminal. Taking the east coast park connector, we pedalled 30km from our hostel and camped in one of the camping spots.
At the break of dawn, we headed to the terminal after breakfast at Changi Village. The bumboat ride to Pengerang took an hour and costs 14 SingDollars.
Upon reaching port in Malaysia and getting cleared, we started pedalling to head to Sungai Rengit. The road was quite wide and traffic was light since it was a Sunday. We had lunch at the town and was supposed to head to Belungkor Port while passing by the coastline where several small houses or Chalets were situated…
Our trip was cut short because of a flat rear tire. Sk tried to fix but it seemed like a lemon and after three flats along the way, we decided to get a bus and a cab getting back to the port. In total we clocked in 70km and was halfway through the area…perhaps next time we’ll do this again
Some tips for tourers:
If you intend to do a daytrip or extended tour from SG to other countries such as Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and others, this would be a good entry point as the view is great, costs are manageably low and there are plenty of homestays for you.
Be sure to bring lights and there are no light posts on the road.
If you intend to tour this place, consider doing this on a Sunday as there are very few vehicles passing by on weekdays and Saturday
It was only in Caliraya, Laguna where we had a chance to ride together. But prior to that I’ve seen Nerica Joy’s posts online about her adventures with her brompton. Though ive heard of people using the bike on long distance trips, very few would do such in the Philippines. And Nerica is one of those few who’d take that long distance adventure using this 16 inch wonder. For this entry on featured builds, Nerica took time to talk about her bike.
PV: Interesting to see that brompton riders like you go long distance with this bike. Does your bike have a name?
NJ: I call my bike “Tanke” because it’s as heavy as a tank hehe.
PV: Quite interesting name! and i agree with you that the bike is a bit on the heavy side given its steel construction. what’s the story behind it? Why decided to have that build?
NJ: The primary reason I got the my Brompton is because I bike to work. Since my work is client-based, I need a bike with a compact fold and easy manueverability for urban commuting. But since I love to do long rides as well, why the heck not use the Brompton?
PV: I agree about the compact fold and its potential for long rides…i remember the topic of type of bike is a longstanding issue among long distance riders but it’s nice that you always go for personal preference and balance opinions of others with your own needs. so what’s in it? anything special?
NJ: Its sturmey archer rear hub makes it easier to shift gears when tackling steep climbs. Also, its geometry allows me to pedal in a near upright position so I won’t tire easily after long distances. Plus, it is very easy to upgrade the brompton to attach racks and bags. The only fault that I have with my build is that it does not have dual crank (yet). Its current build is best for flat pavements. But that doesn’t mean I don’t use it to climb hehe.
PV: yeah tell me about climbs! you basically strolled through the Caliraya climb without breaking a sweat! since you’ve been doing long distance trips for quite some time, what’s the most difficult ride for you?
NJ: My most difficult ride would be hands-down the Taal Loop via Sungay, Talisay Batangas. After 150 km, we were supposed to climb the dreaded Sungay road going to Tagaytay. I was already exhausted then. This is the time when I wished I didn’t use my Brompton because my build has a 50t crank with 16″ wheels. It was not made for climbing. After just 1km mark from the bottom of Sungay road, both my legs cramped and I could not recover. If only I had a smaller crank, the climb would be easier. I vowed to return with a vengeance hehehe.
PV: Everybody dreads that Sungay climb but im glad you got through it…and hey, it’s just there waiting for your revenge hehe…considering that the Brompton may be a difficult bike to bring if you have a lot of climbs in your route, what would be the most memorable ride for you?
NJ: My most memorable ride would be my attempt to bike from Manila to Sagada. My favorite part was Kennon Road. The view was so breathtakingly beautiful that I did not feel the heat or the distance of pedaling for 5 hours to the Lion’s Head. Unfortunately, I did not make it to Sagada by bike since I had an accident. But still, the journey more than made up for the inconvenience that happened.
PV: Ah yes, i remember that when i saw some of the photos online but im glad that you made a speedy recovery and that didn’t dampen your spirit! Why is this build for you?
NJ: I am more of an urban commuter than a tourer that’s why the B is perfect for me. But don’t let the small wheels fool you. It can keep pace with roadbikes on flat pavement and easy shifting makes it a contender on the hills. It’s great for touring as well as for urban commute.
PV: totally agree on this one. I think on my stable, the Brompton is the best commuter out there given the terrible traffic in Manila! and to end, what advice can you give those interested in bike touring?
NJ: My advice to anyone who is touring is to just do it (Nike? Hahaha). The adventure begins the moment you walk out the door. You’ll know what you will need the next time.
When pedalling long distances, there are so many expectations for the rider. To be self-sufficient, to ride strong, and composed…but many take for granted the role of important people who make our trip successful and perhaps less miserable-The good Samaritan…
I’ve heard of countless stories of how good Samaritans-total strangers-have offered whatever it is needed by the biker. Whether it be food and drink, shelter, mechanical assistance or even company, these Good Samaritans are a beacon of hope for riders heading towards great distances isolated from family and friends for many days.
My first encounter with a good Samaritan was in June 2015 when I and several members of the Centurion Cycling Club did a long distance cycling trip to Baguio (estimated distance is 270km from Manila)…after pedalling the whole night and early day, we made our climb in the afternoon. And as I recall hard rain hit us at Kennon Road…witnessing rainwater bringing in soil and rock and vehicles rushing through the road…two of our companions who were ahead of us shouted …they took refuge in a small store…The old lady in the counter allowed us to stay in her small space and even offered food and other stuff to buy and allowed us to stay for the night…What I recall is that she warned us not to ride it out as land/rockslides might put everyone in danger…Most of us didn’t make it up that last climb to Baguio (and we have unfinished business with this route)…but we will never forget the kindness of that good Samaritan…
As time passed by, doing several multiday tours, good Samaritans have always been a part of the success of our trips…offering their space to rest during intense heat or rain, offering cold drinks or coffee,a hot meal, or even a place to stay for the night.
This holiday season, we are reminded of the good Samaritan for two things. Unlike the regular tourist, these good Samaritans are never part of the tourist spectacle. That is, they are never obligated to help or assist or even entertain the tourist-they are regular people who are part of the place we visit. And for that, the cyclist will always be fortunate-to have a much more enriched experience with these people. Often times, these good Samaritans give beyond what they possess-time, resources, effort.
More importantly, as cyclists who travel great distances, we live from what we get (and our success can be greatly attributed to their help), but these good Samaritans live a life from what they give.
If I were asked, what could be the most difficult yet fulfilling rides I have done, it would have to be the Sagada Loop. Not because of the long distance or punishing elevation that one has to go through but the experience drastically changes your views of bike touring-While the route may seem daunting, it is fulfilling as it rewards you with beautiful scenery…In this entry, I share our itinerary and experiences as well as tips for other riders…
Day 1: Manila to San Jose, Nueva Ecija
Sagada Loop 45 started at Valenzuela City Center where riders from different parts of the metro converge. Since the rides are small, we were 6 riders in total…Starting at midnight we pedaled our way to San Rafael Bulacan to Edison’s restaurant-They serve lugaw and tokwa’t baboy (highly recommended dishes!) and napped for 2 hours…
Taking off at 6am, we stopped by the famous red house in San Ildefonso Bulacan, where comfort women were used to be held during World War 2. Sadly, the house has deteriorated and as locals claim, the owners are putting the lot where the house stands on sale (so much for preserving a historical site!)
Though our trip was supposed to be a breeze as weather was fine, our ride leader had to deal with a flat tire and we had to stop at a bikeshop in San Miguel Bulacan…After having the tire fixed, we pedaled our way through Nueva Ecija and decided to call it a day at San Jose. Good thing Kuya Edan (our ride leader) knew people at the Barangay Hall and slept at the Barangay Hall.
Day 2: San Jose, Nueva Ecija to Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya
We rode out early and visited Ate Anitz who was supposed to host us in Day 1 at Carranglan, Nueva Ecija and even met Kevin, a tourer from the UK and saw his nice Thorn Nomad powered by a Rohloff Hub…we had lunch near the lake along Carranglan and had photo ops…
Leaving early afternoon, we took the famous Dalton Pass (Balete Pass) to get to Nueva Vizcaya. This route which spans approximately 8km of zigzag roads and climbs and 6km of downhill were manageable but rain poured towards the end of the route…instead of heading to Bagabag Airport (our next stop), we decided to stay at Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya due to heavy rain…
Day 3: Aritao to Bagabag Airport, Nueva Vizcaya
Rain was heavy and we had to wait for the right time to get to the our next stop…good thing we had a nice photo op along the small mountains on the road and we got to the Airport in a very wet, yet safe state.
Day 4: Bagabag to Banaue, Mountain Province
The sun was up but it wasn’t too hot and we entered Ifugao province and started our trip from Bagabag passing by Lamut-Lagawe-Banaue. Personally, I found this day very difficult as we had to hurdle with approximately 50km of punishing climbs (with very little recovery). We managed to get to Banaue in the evening with very tired legs!
Day 5: Banaue to Mt. Polis, Mountain Province
Though we needed to travel only 22km for this day, we had difficulty heading to mount Polis due to heavy rain…added to that the cold was just too much as well as heavy fog made the climb really challenging.
Day 6: Mt. Polis to Sabangan, Mountain Province
We had a late ride out since it was raining and fog had covered our path. We decided to hang out for lunch and get some of our friends’ bikes fixed at Bontoc, Mountain province. Instead of heading to Sagada, we went to Ate Doris, our host in Sabangan, Mountain Province for much needed rest and laundry since it was raining for several days!
Day 7: Sabangan to Sagada, Mountain Province
We were lucky that the Sun came out again and we took our time heading to Sagada…while we were met by several dogs at the start, we spent time taking photos and enjoying the scenery…We rode back to Sabangan at Ate Doris’ place for a well needed rest to head back to Baguio.
Day 8: Sabangan to Buguias, Benguet Province
This was the start of our journey to Baguio City and the Halsema highway didn’t disappoint in terms of challenging climbs but we were rewarded with beautiful scenery and sunshine…we made the occasional coffee breaks from time to time and encountered several mountain dogs (good thing they were in a good mood not to chase us!)…We got to Buguias around 7pm for dinner and called it a day.
Day 9: Buguias to Baguio, Benguet Province
The highlight of this day was reaching the highest point marker for the Philippine highway system…but added to that we had a sweet treat when we saw clouds and fog dancing in the sky as the sun was about to set…though it rained a bit, we got to Baguio safely and had a mini celebration at Camp John Hay
Day 10: Baguio to Pozzorubio, Pangasinan
Going back to the metro, we passed by Kennon road and took photos of the popular Lion’s head…though heat was now very much apparent as we were leaving the mountains, we called it a day at Pozzorubio where we were hosted by Donald Uy of Surly FFFinas
Day 11: Pozzorubio to Manila
We took off early but one of our riders had three consecutive flats due to the debris on the road…though we got past Tarlac city quite early, we had to nap in the afternoon in a resto in Bamban to let the sun’s heat trickle down a bit..though we arrived late in the evening and bodies all beaten up, we were all happy to finish this route..
Here are some insights drawn from the trip:
The Sagada Loop drastically changes your views of bike touring. When I tried this the first time in April 2016, I initially thought that the loop will be done by covering as much distance as possible in a given day. However, the trip has taught me that for an extended multiday trip such as this where many things can happen, flexibility is needed and setting a target location is much more fruitful and less frustrating.
2. Eating, Hydrating and Napping are good for you. While constantly eating and hydrating are a given in a tour, napping helped as we regained energy midway through the day. It was no use riding it out under the sun or rain and napping kept us alert for the duration of our ride.
It’s always man vs nature. Since the whole route spans an estimated 900km and about 20,000m of elevation (too bad there’s a strava error in my elevation!), it pays to stay on the safe side and not slug it out when heavy rain pours in your path. For instance, there have been sections of landslide areas in our path after several days of rain.
The tour isn’t time bound, but timing is crucial. We were fortunate that Edan (aka the Sagada Looper) has emphasized timing as part of the experience. I remember that in my first loop in April, I missed the scenery along the Halsema highway. But for this trip, it was rewarding to see the sunset on the mountains. Many of Edan’s photos considered timing of the day, using sunlight and nature’s beauty as a backdrop.
A cohesive team helps. I am thankful that all of the members of this batch had the same mindset before this trip (pressure was light, no one was left behind). It was also good that we had done several multiday rides together before the Sagada loop and we were familiar with each other. While many will say that strong riders survive trips like these, it isn’t the case-rather, a supportive group will always have an edge to overcome, physical and mental challenges in a tour.
Dog problem? Ride as a pack. Don’t get me wrong, there are dogs that are relentless in chasing bikers…but I found out that if three or more riders speed together, your chances of being chased are lessened.
Being self-sufficient is key. In total, we had 7 flats and a couple of problems with brakepads but we dealt with these with ease as all of us came prepared.
To end, I think the Sagada Loop can never be the same trip twice as your experiences with the people, route and nature will likely be different. Further, the Sagada Loop is not a “challenge to be conquered” but rather an experience worth sharing. From my end, I believe that the whole tour is a humbling experience in coming to terms with nature’s brutality and beauty. And perhaps more enlightening, the trip helps you restore your faith in people…in many of our stops, good Samaritans, total strangers, extended their help in offering, food, shelter and even assistance…
So if you have a lot of time in your hands and you’re looking for an adventure, this is it